Package installation in a top bar hive at Bee Thinking
What is a top bar hive?
A top bar hive is any hive that uses only bars of some sort, usually with a starter strip of foundation, popsicle stick or wedge from which the bees build their own comb. Top bar hives do not use foundation or frames like traditional Langstroth, WBC or other more commercial hives.
Most top bar hives are long, and are often called horizontal top bar hives, as the bees build their comb horizontally rather than vertically. Most horizontal top bar hives are 3 to 4 feet in length, 15 to 20 inches in width and 12 to 16 inches in depth. Bars are usually 1 3/8” to 1 ½” wide to accommodate bee space between the combs. Depending on the width of the bars and length of the hive, the number of bars range from 20-40 in each top bar hive.
Entrances vary dramatically depending on personal preference. Some beekeepers use entrances in one end of the hive, others one or multiple entrances along the side, and some simply leave a gap between the bars and the end of the hive through which the bees come and go.
How did they start?
Top bar hives in one form or another have likely been used for thousands of years. There is evidence that were once used in Greece in the form of a pot or basket with sticks laid across the top. They are one of the most basic methods of managing bees, as they are simple to build, simple to manage and are more advanced than a skep or cavity from which the comb cannot be easily removed.
Why top bar hives?
Top bar hives are less expensive to build or purchase than Langstroth or other foundation/frame-dependant beekeeping equipment. They do not require honey supers, extra frames, foundation, queen excluders, uncapping knifes, extractors or other expensive tools; they almost fully self-contained beehives.
In addition to being a low-cost alternative to traditional equipment, they are significantly easier to work in than a Langstroth hive. When one inspects comb in a horizontal top bar hive, only 1 comb at a time is exposed, thus leaving the rest of the colony undisturbed. This makes for less agitated bees, and a more enjoyable experience for the beekeeper.
There are no boxes to lift. This alone has led many a beekeeper with an aching back down the path of top bar beekeeping. Traditional honey supers and deeps can weigh upwards of 50 pounds each, which takes its toll on the body of the beekeeper. The heaviest comb you’ll need to lift with a horizontal top bar hive is a single 3-7 pound, honey-laden top bar!
In recent years there has been a resurgence in foundationless, top bar beekeeping throughout the world as beekeepers look for low-cost, low-impact alternatives to traditional Langstroth, frame beehives. They are especially effective in African and other impoverished areas of the world that cannot manufacture or purchase the precision milled equipment required to use traditional hives. In many areas of Africa the top bar hive has been critical in turning low-profit honey hunting and log hive beekeeping operations into profitable endeavors. This has significantly improved the quality of life for the inhabitants of numerous villages.
Top bar hive advantages
Top bar hive disadvantages
Our top bar hives
Our top bar hives are constructed from sustainably harvested Western Red Cedar in Portland, Oregon. They are 42 inches long, 17 inches wide and about 14 inches deep, making them the largest readily available top bar hive. They feature 5 side entrances that can be reduced with wine corks (included). End entrances can be provided upon request. 2 follower boards are included for easy management of the colony or colonies within the hive.
A 24” viewing window is included with all of our top bar hives, useful both for management purposes as well as enjoyment when visitors stop by to ogle your bees.
View inside the hive through the viewing window
Unlike most of our competitors, our hives come with both a roof and legs – meaning that all you will need to provide is a space and bees! With the legs attached the top of the hive is approximately 36” high, making the hive easy to work for those of average height (Custom heights available upon request).
End entrances vs. Side Entrances
There is much debate as to whether end entrances or side entrances are superior. Our opinion is that side entrances are more versatile, as with the use of follower boards, the hive can be used to overwinter multiple colonies in the same box. In addition, side entrances make access to the brood and honey chambers much easier. With an end entrance it can be quite difficult to move enough bars of comb out of the way to reach the combs nearest the entrance. With side entrances there is empty space on each side of the colony, meaning that the beekeeper can go into the hive starting on either side with little disturbance to the bees.
If, however, you are adamant about end entrances we can certainly accommodate. Please include the request in your order and we will be sure to check with you for the specifics prior to construction.
How to manage a top bar hive
After using Langstroth hives, Warre hives and horizontal top bar hives, we feel that horizontal top bar hives are the most enjoyable to manage -- especially for the new beekeeper. They do require more visits to ensure the colony always has ample space for honey storage, but with the use of the window and simple bar manipulation, the maintenance is quick and efficient.
When you get your bees you should install toward the center of the hive with the follower boards spaced in such a way that 8-10 bars are accessible to the colony. Open only 1-2 corks, leaving the rest closed up. Over the first few weeks the colony will rapidly build comb from the bars – it is at this time that you’ll need to play close attention to ensure that the comb is straight so you can easily manipulate it later on. If it is crooked or “cross-combed” you will need to gently push it back into place on the bar. If you fail to catch the cross-comb early on, the problem will be exacerbated and it will become almost impossible for you to remove single bars of comb.
As the colony grows you will want to move a single spacer outward to give them more space to store honey and brood. Once that follower board nears the end of the hive you can begin moving the other follower board until the colony fills the hive. Once there are only a few empty bars left in the hive, you will want to begin harvesting honey or moving honey from the full hive to weaker hives.
View inside a growing top bar hive
As winter approaches you will want to check that the colony or colonies have sufficient stores – 40-60lbs. If you have multiple colonies you can spread the surplus around to ensure all colonies have enough. Otherwise, depending on your beekeeping philosophy you can feed 2-1 sugar syrup (We rarely feed in our own apiary, even if a colony is low on stores). Reduce the entrances to 1-2 open corks in the center.